SERVES 4

Laura Chenel, the noted cheese maker who originated American chèvre, advised us to use the juice of meyer lemons—in season from winter through late spring—to dress this salad.

3 tbsp. of a mild fruity olive oil
1 tbsp. fresh lemon juice
2 cups arugula leaves, torn into pieces
2 cups tender inner white leaves of frisee, torn into pieces
2 cups watercress leaves, preferably from wild hydroponic
   watercress
3 small scallions, white and tender green parts only,
   trimmed and thinly sliced
Leaves from 1 head celery, coarsely chopped
2 small tender inner ribs celery, trimmed and thinly sliced
Leaves from 1⁄4 bunch fresh parsley, chopped
Leaves from 1⁄4 bunch fresh cilantro, chopped
Leaves from 10 sprigs fresh mint, chopped
6 small radishes, trimmed and thinly sliced
1⁄2 small bulb fennel, trimmed, halved lengthwise, and
   thinly sliced crosswise
2 oz. Tome or other aged firm goats' milk cheese, rind
   removed
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Whisk oil and lemon juice together in a large bowl. Add arugula, frisee, watercress, scallions, celery leaves, celery, parsley, cilantro, mint, radishes, and fennel. Using a swivel-blade vegetable peeler, shave cheese over salad. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

2. Gently toss salad then adjust seasonings and toss again.