MAKES ABOUT 30

These chickpea-flour "fries" are a staple of Niçoise cuisine.

Olive oil
2 1⁄2 cups chickpea flour
Vegetable oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Brush six saucers with olive oil and set aside.

2. Pour chickpea flour in a steady stream into 4 cups cold salted water in a large, heavy saucepan, whisking as you pour to prevent lumps. Cook over medium heat, whisking vigorously, until mixture thickens, about 5 minutes.

3. Remove from heat, still whisking, and pour batter into saucers. Fill the saucers up to the rims, about 1⁄2" thick. Cool at least 30 minutes, then gently slide batter off saucers and cut into "steak-fry" shapes, about 3⁄4" x 3" long.

4. Heat 1" vegetable oil in a heavy skillet over high heat. Fry in batches without crowding, turning often, until golden brown, about 5–7 minutes. Drain, season with salt and pepper.