This smooth-textured, luscious side dish—the word bhartha means to pulverize in Hindi, referring to the fact that the ingredients are traditionally mashed in a mortar with a pestle—is excellent served with rice on Naan. Cook 2 medium eggplants (2 lbs.) directly over a medium gas flame, turning, until charred and softened, 10–12 minutes each. Remove skin and roughly chop flesh. Mash eggplant flesh with the bottom of a drinking glass; set aside. Heat 8 tbsp. ghee in a pot over medium-high heat. Add 2 tsp. cumin seeds and cook for 30–45 seconds. Add 3 finely chopped medium red onions and cook until browned, 25–30 minutes. Add 8 finely chopped cloves garlic and 4 stemmed finely chopped thai green chiles; cook until lightly browned, 4–5 minutes. Add 4 chopped medium tomatoes and 4 tsp. sugar; cook until thickened, about 5 minutes. Add eggplant, 1 1⁄2 tbsp. garam masala, 1 tbsp. kashmiri red chile powder or paprika, and salt to taste. Cook until hot, 3–4 minutes more. Serve garnished with sliced tomatoes, julienned ginger, and chopped cilantro leaves. Serves 4.