Bhaji

SERVES 4

This recipe is based on one that appears in My Bombay Kitchen by Niloufer Ichaporia King (University of California Press, 2007). "Try this way of cooking greens with whatever's in season," says the author. "Parsis usually go for amaranth, spinach, or fenugreek greens."

1 1⁄4" piece peeled fresh ginger, chopped
1 clove garlic, chopped
Salt
2 1⁄2 lbs. greens, such as spinach or amaranth, trimmed
   and washed
1 tbsp. canola oil
1–2 green thai chiles, slit to the stem
1 small red onion, chopped
1⁄4 tsp. turmeric
1⁄2 tsp. cayenne
1 tomato, cored and coarsely chopped

1. Put ginger and garlic together on a cutting board, sprinkle with a bit of salt, and roughly chop them together. Using the flat side of your knife blade, smash the chopped ginger and garlic to form a paste; set aside. Put spinach into a large pot, cover, and with no more than the water adhering to the leaves, steam over medium heat, tossing occasionally, until the greens collapse, 5–7 minutes; drain and set aside.

2. Heat oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the green chiles and let them sizzle for a moment before adding the onion. When the onion softens, add the ginger–garlic paste, stirring to keep the contents from sticking. Add the turmeric, cayenne, and about 1⁄2 tsp. salt and stir for a few moments before you add the chopped tomato. Let the tomato cook down a little, 3–4 minutes. Add greens, combine well, and cook over low heat, covered, until tender and well flavored with the other ingredients, about 30 minutes. The final consistency should be "fairly dry, not swimming".