Serves 8

This dish from Andrea Reusing of the restaurant Lantern, in Chapel Hill, North Carolina, highlights the flavor of heritage chicken.

1  4-lb. heritage chicken, legs removed
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper,
   to taste
1⁄4 lb. slab bacon, cut into slivers
2 tbsp. canola oil
2 tsp. dried thyme
4 cloves garlic, chopped
4 medium carrots, thickly sliced
4 ribs celery, thickly sliced
2 large yellow onions, cut into 1" chunks
1 fresh bay leaf
2 2⁄3 cups flour
1 cup white wine
1 tbsp. baking powder
1⁄2 tsp. baking soda
5 1⁄2 tbsp. melted butter, cooled slightly
3⁄4 cup buttermilk
2 tbsp. finely chopped parsley

1. Halve chicken legs, separating thigh from drumstick; season with salt and pepper; set aside. Put remaining chicken into a pot; cover with salted water; boil. Reduce heat; simmer until breast is just cooked, 12–15 minutes. Remove chicken. Cut breast and wings from carcass. Discard any skin and bones from breast and wing meat; cut into 1" chunks; chill. Return carcass to pot; simmer for 1 hour. Strain; reserve 4 cups broth (save remainder for another use).

2. Meanwhile, cook bacon in a large wide pot over medium heat until crisp, 8–10 minutes. Transfer bacon to a plate; leave fat in pot. Add and heat oil; brown drumsticks and thighs, 8–10 minutes. Transfer to a plate. Add thyme, garlic, carrots, celery, onions, and bay leaf; cook until light brown, 18–20 minutes. Add 2⁄3 cup flour; cook for 1 minute. Add wine; cook for 1 minute. Whisk in reserved broth and salt and pepper to taste. Nestle in drumsticks, thighs, and bacon. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, covered, for 15 minutes.

3. Whisk together remaining flour, baking powder, baking soda, 1 1⁄2 tsp. salt, and 1⁄4 tsp. pepper in a bowl. Combine butter, buttermilk, and parsley in a second bowl; pour into flour mixture; stir to make a thick batter. Uncover pot; add breast and wing meat. Drop batter in 8 large spoonfuls over the top. Simmer, covered, until dumpings are cooked, 20–25 minutes.