(Kua Txob Tuav Xyaw Dos)

MAKES ABOUT 1⁄3 CUP

This pungent condiment is served at virtually every Xiong family meal. Stir it into soups or stir-fried dishes, like the stir-fried angled luffa with beef, or serve it on its own with rice. Vary the amount of chiles according to your tolerance for heat.

18 small green thai chiles, stemmed and roughly chopped
1⁄2 tsp. salt
3 scallions (green parts only), roughly chopped
1⁄2 cup lightly packed chopped cilantro leaves

1. For moderately hot results, put chiles and salt into a mortar (alternatively, use a small food processor). Working the pestle in a circular motion, crush chiles and salt against the sides of the mortar until a coarse paste forms.

2. Add scallions and cilantro and, switching to an up-and-down pounding motion, work the pestle to combine the ingredients well, transforming the mixture into a wet, rough-textured relish. Transfer to a small bowl and serve.