SERVES 4

For a variation, Day-Lewis sometimes fills the glasses halfway up with the syllabub, adds a little raspberry purée or a few chopped white peaches or strawberries, and then tops them off with the remaining syllabub, to create a fruity middle section to the dessert.

1⁄3 cup superfine sugar
1⁄4 cup oloroso sherry
2 tbsp. cognac
2 tbsp. fresh lemon juice
Zest of 1 lemon, reserve a small
   amount for garnish
1 3⁄4 cups plus 2 tbsp. cold heavy
   cream (preferably unhomogenized)
Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
4 sprigs of rosemary

1. Put sugar, sherry, cognac, lemon juice, and zest into a large bowl. Stir well, then cover and let sit out at room temperature overnight to allow the flavors to meld.

2. Add heavy cream and a pinch of nutmeg (just "a suspicion", says Day-Lewis) to the sherry mixture and whip with a whisk until soft peaks form. Spoon into 4 glasses and garnish each with a bit of lemon zest and a sprig of rosemary.