The Italian Pantry

Credit: Michael Krauss

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ANCHOVIES Though often disparaged, anchovies cannot be ignored if you desire authentic Italian flavor-their slightly mysterious taste adds that extra-special something to many dishes. They are usually packed in oil or salt, but Sicily also produces "white anchovies," filleted and marinated in white vinegar. In a pinch you can use anchovy paste, which has a milder taste and is easy to find.