The Spice Islands Pantry

Credit: James Oseland

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1. TRASSI (Dried Shrimp Paste) A firm, barely moist, dark brown paste made from tiny brine shrimp that have been fermented with salt in earthenware crocks, then dried in the sun. Dried shrimp paste in Banda serves much the same purpose as fish sauce in other Southeast Asian cuisines, lending dishes a subtly salty pungency. Look for eight-ounce rectangular packages labeled "belacan" (its Malaysian and Singaporean name).