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Issue #150[all previous issues]
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Scallion pancakes are as widely popular in China as muffins are in America. The basic recipe is just a guide.
This perfect rendition, from Claudia Roden's masterpiece cookbook The Food of Spain (HarperCollins, 2011), is a deceptively simple mixture of olive oil, white wine vinegar, chopped parsley, and crushed tomato. Somehow it telegraphs coolness and warmth, acidity and richness all at the same time.
A stew made from chana dal (yellow split peas), sambar is a spicy medium for vegetables from miniature eggplants to okra to pearl onions.
The Indian antecedent to my favorite soup, mulligatawny, likely was a thin, spicy lentil broth. The British thickened it, added meat, but, thankfully, kept the glorious Indian spices.
Leave it to the potato-loving Irish to dream up colcannon, spuds mashed with finely chopped cabbage and enriched with lots of cream.