True Buffalo wings come only from Frank and Teressa's Anchor Bar, where owner Teressa Bellissimo invented the dish in 1964. There, wings are fried, then tossed in a combination of melted margarine and hot sauce.
Even though the heydey of Le Veau d'Or, a French culinary fixture on the Upper East Side in Manhattan, is more than 50 years past, it's still a go-to for precisely executed, classic bistro fare. In the restaurant's pitch-perfect version of a rustic French dish called Poussins en Cocotte, spring chickens are braised in wine and stock until tender.
In Lori Zimring De Mori’s article “The Flavors of Home” (April 2006), where this recipe first appeared, the author describes the foods of Florentine trattorias. A version of this dish (piselli freschi in Italian) is served at the restaurant Coco Lezzone in Florence. Look for fresh unshelled peas at your local farmers’ market.