From SAVEUR Issue #154
On a recent monday morning, Peter Pan Donut & Pastry Shop in Brooklyn was open barely 15 minutes, and the crowd waiting to buy fresh donuts had already spilled out the door. At the front of the line, half a dozen cops ordered their first meal of the day: hefty, craggy old-fashioneds and coffee. Next, the local pharmacy manager requested tea and a single glistening chocolate glazed. Then a young couple glanced up from their cellphones just long enough to get a red velvet cruller and a toasted coconut. When my turn came, I asked for one whole wheat, one red velvet, and a cup of coffee, slipped past the others to the worn Formica counters, and settled in. Keep reading »
From SAVEUR Issue #154
When I first encountered Wood's Boiled Cider drizzled atop fresh-baked biscuits during breakfast at a friend's house in New England, I figured it must be maple syrup. But the taste revealed something entirely unexpected: a dense, concentrated nectar evocative of dried figs, rich lager, autumn leaves, and apples—thousands of apples. Keep reading »
From SAVEUR Issue #154
Sichuan peppercorns, responsible for ma, the buzzing, tingling sensation that is one of Sichuan cuisine's most distinctive characteristics, are not related to pepper at all but consist of the dried rinds of tiny fruits from a small thorny tree in the citrus family known as prickly ash. The spice's pins-and-needles effect—a phenomenon that scientists refer to as paresthesia—comes from compounds known as sanshools, which suffuse the dusky pink rinds. Keep reading »
From fruity Italian cerignolas to firm and buttery luques and even briny California olives from the can, green olives are great as a stand-alone snack, marinated at home with spices of your choosing, or used to add flavor to a wide variety of dishes. To showcase this versatility, we've collected 15 recipes to inspire you, from simple fried green olives to an aromatic chicken, olive, and lemon tagine. See the recipes in the gallery »
Credit: Maxime Iattoni
Some of the most beloved cookbooks in our library are the dustiest: books we grew up with, inherited from our grandparents, found at yard sales, or bought new decades ago. In this column, we celebrate these bibliographic treasures, and our favorite recipes therein.
When I was a kid, maybe 8 or 9 years old, I went to a neighbor's house for dinner. It was my first solo outing as a dinner guest, and at the end of the meal my hosts presented me with dessert: an apple. They acted like this was a perfectly normal and acceptable way to end a meal, but I returned home and relayed my horror at what had happened to my mother, who quickly agreed they were weirdos and gave me some cookies. In our family, not serving dessert was not an option—and an apple was not dessert. We are people who look at the dessert menu first so that we know how to organize the rest of the meal. We plan travel around particular bakeries or pastry chefs. We care deeply about dessert. I think Claudia Fleming would agree with us that while an unadorned apple may be wonderful, it is not dessert.
Keep reading »
Credit: Tim Mazurek
From SAVEUR Issue #153
If the soft-scented Mediterranean bay leaf is the nice boy next door, then assertive California bay, Umbellularia californica, is the dangerous guy in the leather jacket. The leaf packs such an aromatic punch—think allspice, cinnamon, menthol—that just walking by a tree will turn your head. Keep reading »
Credit: Todd Coleman
When cold weather calls for a chill-chasing dinner, wrap your hands around a steaming bowl of one of our warming seafood soups and stews. From creamy New England Seafood Chowder to lemongrass-scented Hot and Sour Shrimp Soup to hearty Brazilian Fish Stew, here are our best recipes from around the globe. See the recipes in the gallery »
Credit: Todd Coleman
This past autumn, my husband and I went mushroom hunting in the woods in Nyack, New York, about 30 miles north of our Brooklyn home. Being utter novices—the wildest place I had foraged for mushrooms previously was the produce section of Whole Foods—I didn't trust our ability to safely harvest edible species. So we invited Paul Sadowski, secretary of the New York Mycological Society, to guide us. Paul (who got turned onto mushrooming two decades ago by his former employer, the late composer and mycophile John Cage) was a more than reliable leader, and we rode home giddy with our day's haul of oyster and brick top mushrooms. Keep reading »
Credit: Yossy Arefi
Recognized for its subtly sweet flavor reminiscent of licorice and anise, fennel is one of our favorite winter vegetables. We've gathered our 10 favorite recipes that showcase the versatile quality of fennel, from creamy fennel baked in milk to crisp Sicilian fennel salad with oranges and olives. See the recipes in the gallery »
Credit: Todd Coleman
From SAVEUR Issue #153
In summer, my husband, Eric, and I harvest hundreds of pounds of mangos from our Miami yard. We've become my parents. When I was a kid, their trees produced so many mangos that they took up the kitchen table, counters, most of the dining room and patio, and three freezers. We made chutneys, pies, salsas, ice cream, and even wine. But the fruit still piled up. Mom started sneaking them out by way of the U.S. mail. Keep reading »
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