The secret to success with this dish is the quality of its parts.
In Lori Zimring De Mori’s article “The Flavors of Home” (April 2006), where this recipe first appeared, the author describes the foods of Florentine trattorias. A version of this dish (piselli freschi in Italian) is served at the restaurant Coco Lezzone in Florence. Look for fresh unshelled peas at your local farmers’ market.
Here is our adaptation of chef John Doherty's modern-day recipe from what is now the Waldorf-Astoria Hotel.