The Essential Spain

The Art of Paella

By David Rosengarten

There's one thing that most paella enthusiasts in Spain seem to agree on: that the sunny, fluffy yellow rice dish served at Spanish restaurants all over the world, the version topped with red peppers and loaded with everything from shrimp to chorizo to lobster, is not the real thing. Real Spanish paella, which is to say Valencia-style paella—the dish originated in that eastern coastal Spanish city—is an altogether darker, richer, smokier creation: denser than a pilaf, drier than a risotto, and arguably more satisfying than either.

» READ FULL STORY

View Larger Map

A Spanish Tomato Feast By The Editors	The Culture of Tapas By George Semler	Restaurante El Campero By Sam and Sam Clark
Ferran Adria's Second Act By Anne Willan	Spain's Market Masterpiece By George Semler	City Dozen: Alicante By Dabney Gough

Photos & Videos

TAPAS Padrón Peppers with Serrano Ham Navajas al ajillo Piquillo Peppers Stuffed with Salt Cod Puree Patatas Bravas Tortilla Española Fried Olives	PAELLA Paella a la Marinera Paella Mixta Paella Valenciana Shellfish Paella Rice with Squid Ink Rice with Duck and Turnips	ENTREES Favas with Blood Sausage and Bacon Duck Breast in Brandy Sauce with Truffles and Mushrooms Honeyed Roast Lamb with Spinach and Pine Nuts Valencian Pasta Quail in Pomegranate Sauce Saffron Seafood Stew
DRINKS Sherry: Spain’s Proudest Wine Hot Chocolate Agasajo-Style Txakolí Wine Spanish Red Wine Spritzers Sanru Cocktail	DESSERTS Flan Imposible Corn Tortillas with Melted Chocolate Lemon Foam Egg Custard with Caramel Flan	PANTRY Fish and Shellfish Stock Quince Paste Rice with Tomatoes and Onions Pickled Serrano Chiles Saffron Allioli