In Queens, New York, at Cevabdzinica Sarajevo, Bosnian owner Ifeta Huskovic takes the opposite approach. "We don't have the space to make ajvar," Huskovic says of her small, 15-year-old kitchen space in Astoria. "But I do make the kajmak. I start with Bulgarian feta," she says, "but the rest is a secret." Huskovic hails from Sarajevo, where she ran a cevabdzinica (a restaurant specializing in grilled meat) from 1976 until she moved to New York. "It was the same sort of fast food," she explains, "but we just sold Bosnian sausages. In my country, in my city, we usually serve cevapi with kajmak and onions." But, in Astoria, a neighborhood with a diverse Balkan population, people started asking for ajvar, too. So Huskovic buys it from local markets.