Not bad. But Glenn Drowns, a high school science teacher in Calamus, a small town in eastern Iowa, is the largest private squash collector in the country. Drowns, who considers squash to be his "first love in the garden", hand-pollinates as many as 250 different types. He will readily agree with me that it is as easy to be enchanted by the many fascinating stories connected with old squash varieties as it is by their unusual flavors, colors, and textures. For not all squash are orange or even golden yellow. Indeed, some of the most flavorful are green, white, or even blue. Drowns shares my infatuation with older varieties, and we trade stories about our favorite squash, like the rare wickersham sweet potato pumpkin, which has whitish flesh that turns yellow as it cooks, and an unusual, almost pineapple flavor. Both Drowns and I are constantly amazed by the array of flavors that burst forth from heirloom squash. Surely this is the underdog of the kitchen garden, where tasteless zucchini reigns supreme.