I grew up in Mexico City, not far from what is considered by many to be the city's very first, and best, paleteria, or ice-pop store. La Michoacana was founded in 1941 by Agustin Andrade, who came from the town of Tocumbo, in the southwestern Mexican state of Michoacan. The store's signature frozen treat, the paleta, was already eaten in places like Tocumbo, where it was made with local ingredients from the farms surrounding the town; it has since been a reliable source of pleasure for three generations of Mexicans. I know that I owe much of my childhood happiness to paletas. I was raised on lime, tamarind, and arroz con leche (rice pudding) paletas, and my first tastes of tropical fruits like guanabana (soursop) and negro zapote (black persimmon) came frozen on a stick. One of my fondest teenage memories is of walking along a street on the outskirts of Mexico City, one hand intertwined with my girlfriend's and the other clutching a mango-chile paleta .