All that talk of fried foods reminded me of a standout dish of fried cauliflower I ate at Zahav several months back. The restaurant's version dresses up the crisped florets with mint, garlic and tart labneh. But a little research turned up a traditional Sephardic Jewish dish, culupidia frita con limon, or fried cauliflower bathed in lemon juice. Bingo. Zester in hand, I stirred wisps of lemon peel into a flour and egg batter, fried the coated cauliflower in oil, then showered each bite with fresh lemon juice. Crunchy, tender, and brimming with fresh, tangy flavor, I expect this dish will be on heavy rotation in my kitchen until spring.