Made once a year on the Weathersfield, Vermont, farm that's been in Willis Wood's family since 1798, the recipe for this one-ingredient wonder has remained the same for centuries: Fresh apples—mostly McIntosh for a good balance of sweet and tart—are juiced on the screw-cranked press that's done the job since the late 1800s. The resulting cider is run through a wood-fired flue pan, the same kind of equipment used to concentrate maple sap into syrup. For every ten gallons Wood pours in, nine are lost to evaporation, and what remains is thick, delicious boiled cider. After cooling, the precious elixir goes straight into a glass bottle and is sealed in; nothing is added, and nothing but water is taken away. The result is a foodstuff that is the essence of New England, and of apples themselves.