Today, California growers export white peaches (and their cousins, white nectarines) to Asia and elsewhere, and the harvest season has been extended from May to September—with evocatively named varieties such as Snowflame, Snowbrite, White Lady, and Summer Snow. The stone fruit industry is in search of the always-elusive perfect commercial peach: flavorful, with soft, ripe texture, but durable enough to survive shipping. At the best farms, the fruit is allowed to hang to full maturity, for an extra week, to develop a strong, perfumy sweetness and intense flavor. It is then picked by hand in the early morning and packed in individual cups, in single-layer boxes lined with paper and foam. By midnight, the crates will arrive at the airport in San Francisco, and can be in Boston in time for the next day's dinner. Yes, you'll pay for this luxury—but as I learned from my grandfather, quality is worth the price.