For many of us, there's a certain smell that we associate with the start of the workday. It might be the nutty aroma of that first cup of coffee, the gasoline vapor of a parking garage, or the antiseptic tang of an office lobby. When I walk through the doors of Colicchio & Sons, my restaurant in New York City's Chelsea neighborhood, it's yeast that I smell. Buttery, sweet, and welcoming, the scent of 500 baking Parker House rolls (see Recipe: Colicchio & Sons' Parker House rolls)--the number we serve in a single night—hits me like a carb-loaded wave. (Each guest typically eats an average of three of the decadent rolls, served gratis, during the course of a dinner.) Starting at 11:00 a.m., the aroma wafts from the kitchen through the dining room and bar, tempting the prep cooks, the servers, the suppliers stopping in with their deliveries, and, of course, me.