Buckwheat Crêpes with Pork Pâté (Ployes with Cretons)

Resist the urge to substitute regular buckwheat flour for silverskin buckwheat flour—the color, flavor, and texture will be entirely different.

1 lb. rendered lard
**1 lb. leaf lard, membrane removed and discarded,
finely chopped
1 small yellow onion, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
1 1/2 lbs. ground pork
1⁄4 tsp. ground cinnamon
1⁄8 tsp. freshly ground nutmeg
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 cup silverskin buckwheat flour (light buckwheat flour)
1⁄2 cup all-purpose flour
2 tsp. baking powder
**

1. Heat lards in a medium cast-iron pot over medium heat, about 25 minutes. (The leaf lard will render during this time.) Reduce heat to low; carefully add onions and garlic; cook until softened, 4-5 minutes. Add pork, cinnamon, nutmeg, and salt and pepper; break up with a wooden spoon. Stir in 1 cup water. Gently simmer, covered, stirring occasionally, for 6 hours. Let cool slightly. Blend pork mixture in a food processor in batches until smooth. Adjust seasonings. Transfer the cretons to small containers; refrigerate or freeze until ready to use. (If freezing, cover the surface with wax paper before sealing the container.)

2. Beat together 1 1⁄2 tsp. salt, flours, baking powder, and 2 cups water in a bowl. Let batter rest for 5 minutes. Heat a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Working in batches, pour about 3 tbsp. batter into middle of skillet; swirl around to form a 6" circle. Cook until bubbles, or "eyes", form on the surface of the ployes and surface is cooked, about 1 minute. Wait 30 seconds more (if you move them too early they'll stick). Run a spatula underneath to release. Stack ployes on a plate as they're done. (Stir batter in between batches to remix.) Allow cretons to warm slightly, then spread onto warm ployes.

SERVES 6