Atkinsons Smoked Fish
The gritty port town of Grimsby, on the North Sea, wouldn't match up with most visions of rural English life, but, historically, Grimberians (yes, that's what they're called) have harvested one of Lincolnshire's most important foodstuffs: fish, and above all haddock. The oldest local haddock smokery still in operation is Atkinsons, run by the family who founded it using the same cold smoking methods and the same brick chimneys they've always used. Haddock's flavor is sweeter than cod's and other flaky white fishes' to begin with; once smoked in this way, it has a delectable balance of sweetness and smoke, and a firm and succulent texture. A few years ago, the latest generation of Atkinsons to enter the business opened a fishmongers called The Fishwife, a gleaming retail outlet tucked into a corner of the hulking old smokery selling all kinds of fish, both smoked and fresh.