I also have to mention one cheesesteak relation, a local oddity named the Schmitter, after an old Philadelphia beer. The sandwich is served at the ballpark, but it comes from McNally's Tavern, in Chestnut Hill. I've studied its blueprint: American cheese, steak, fried onions, tomatoes, cheese, grilled salami, "special sauce"—which is like Thousand Island dressing—and more cheese, on a local kaiser roll. With beer and potato chips, it's totally appealing. Less well-known than the cheese-steak but just as indigenous is the roast beef or roast pork Italiano, topped with sauteed greens and cheese. It comes from South Philly, the original home of DiNic's, which is now located in the upscale Reading Terminal Market. DiNic's gets my vote for the most beautiful roast beef, broccoli rabe, and sharp pro-volone sandwich; these guys prepare it all from scratch. But they've lost the street character of a place like John's, a fourth-generation shop located in a South Philly cinder-block bunker, where the roast pork with gravy, fried long hot peppers, and garlicky spinach makes a good package—one almost as tasty as the sandwich served at Lenny's, a sleeper out in the suburbs: moist, fennel-scented pulled pork on a football-shaped semolina roll.