Postcard: Cotton Candy at The Four Seasons in Beverly Hills

Every couple years I make a trip out to California to visit friends who have moved there from the East Coast, and every time, I experience something amazing that makes me wonder why I haven't joined them. On my most recent trip, I was staying at the Four Seasons in Beverly Hills. The weather was mild, with a soft breeze that begged for al fresco dining, so I headed for the inviting garden of Culina, the hotel's modern Italian restaurant, where my waitress recommended a sweet pick-me-up. "The Affogato", she whispered, "is my favorite." How could I resist? I'm glad I didn't try. I was presented with a cup of vanilla bean gelato topped with an airy cloud of cotton candy, with two crisp_pignoli cookies on the side. I watched in delight as the waitress poured a double shot of espresso over the fluffy mass of spun sugar, which dissolved into a perfect fusion of_amaro e dolce. —Mildred Mattos