WHERE TO EAT
1. Antica Pizzeria Port'Alba
Via Port'Alba 18 (39/081/459-713). While Naples' oldest pizzeria offers a full-service dining room, you couldn't do better than to visit the 183-year-old place, grab a small, folded portafoglio pizza wrapped in paper, and eat it while walking around the block, where you'll find an incredible selection of new and antiquarian bookstores.
2. Di Matteo
Via dei Tribunali 94 (39/081/455-262). Opened in 1936, this combination pizzeria-friggitoria (fried-food specialist) in the historic district is where President Bill Clinton wolfed down a pizza back in 1994 (and, boy, do they have the pictures to prove it). Here you can buy scrumptious fried rice balls and pasta-filled fritters to enjoy on the street, or settle into one of the quiet dining rooms for a superb pizza margherita.
3. Il Pizzaiolo del Presidente
Via dei Tribunali 120/121 (39/081/210-903). Run by effervescent pizzaiolo Enzo Cacialli, this two-story pizzeria just down the block from Di Matteo is a welcoming spot to sample some of the city's most beloved pies. Cacialli's talents are beautifully exhibited in his simple pizza marinara, its pillowy crust topped with sweet tomato sauce, garlic, wild marjoram, olive oil, and basil.
Credit: Todd Coleman
L'Antica Pizzeria da Michele**
Via Cesare Sersale 1-3 (39/081/553-9204). The purists at this famous pizzeria that first opened in 1906 serve only margherita and marinara pizzas. Both are spectacular enough to make one ask, why serve anything else?
5. Pizzeria Capatosta
Via Guglielmo Marconi 80, Recale, Caserta (39/0823/493-18). This homey pizzeria about 20 miles northeast of Naples in the scenic town of Recale features a large wood-paneled dining room brimming with trophies won by brothers Enzo and Lello Giustiniani for their pizzas. Those pies, as well as the excellent antipasti offered here, are worth the trip.
6. Pizzeria Gino Sorbillo
Via dei Tribunali 32 (39/081/446-643). This place is usually packed with locals, tourists, and students from the nearby University of Naples. One of the city's most lauded pizzerias since its opening in 1935, the shop suffered a massive fire last year. Happily, after a quick remodel, it's back in action with a cheery, modernized dining area and great marinara pizzas.
7. Pizzeria Starita
Via Materdei 27 (39/081/557-3682). Antonio Starita and his son Giuseppe fire up some of Naples' best pizza pies, from the classic marinara to the lightly fried Montanara Starita at this bustling pizzeria, the setting of the classic 1954 Sophia Loren film L'Oro di Napoli. Don't miss out on the rachetta, a tennis racket—shaped pizza—calzone hybrid lavished with cheese and mushrooms.
Credit: Todd Coleman
8. Pizzeria La Notizia
Via Caravaggio 53 (39/081/714-2155). In the high-end Vomero district, pizzaiolo Enzo Coccia serves beautifully rendered classics, as well as the whimsical pizza del contadino, a calzone stuffed with warm escarole tossed with sardines, pecorino cheese, and mozzarella di bufala.
WHERE TO STAY
Grand Hotel Parker's
Corso Vittorio Emanuele 135 (39/081/761-2474). $129 and up for a double. Opened in 1870, this historic hotel in the residential Corso Vittorio Emanuele neighborhood is within walking distance of museums, shopping, and plenty of pizzerias. Elegant two-story rooms feature antique furniture and balconies overlooking the Gulf of Naples. At the hotel's restaurant, George's, chef Vincenzo Bacioterracino serves excellent Neapolitan dishes such as mozzarella di bufala tonnato, buffalo mozzarella in tuna sauce.
Royal Continental Hotel**
Via Partenope 38 (39/081/245-2068; ). $180 for a double. This hotel located in Santa Lucia, a neighborhood filled with seafood restaurants and historic sites, offers stylish, contemporary rooms, a seawater pool, and a top-notch restaurant where chef Raimondo Cinque offers Mediterranean classics such as ensalata di mare con olio e limone, seafood salad with olive oil and lemon.
**Dinner for two with drinks and tip: $25 to $40
For more information on visiting Naples, visit the Italian Tourism website.