Cool-climate chardonnay and pinot noir make great sparkling wine in France's Champagne region and in other parts of the world, so it is hardly surprising that Anderson Valley's two largest wineries produce sparkling wines. In 1978, John Scharffenberger, a Berkeley graduate with a passion for gardening, a well-educated palate, and some family money, decided to purchase valley grapes as the basis for a fine methode champenoise product. Hot on his heels came the French house of Roederer, which, after researching California's cool climates for the closest match with Reims and Épernay, came up with Anderson Valley. Today, Roederer Estate sparkling wines display an uncanny stylistic similarity to their French siblings, and are regarded by many critics as California's best. The arrival of this large foreign-owned winery—and the subsequent purchase of Scharffenberger by LVMH, owners of Moet et Chandon and other champagne houses—might have been expected to distress the valley's small, individualist vintners, but it has not. Roederer's large facility blends discreetly into a hillside, and the impact of its reputation (and advertising budget) is not lost on other winemakers. "Roederer," says Allan Green, "put Anderson Valley on the map."