Château D’Aqueria, Tavel (France) Dry Rosé 2006

Dry roses are enjoying a revival. Good examples taste both substantial and refreshing—a delightful combination on steamy summer evenings.

Virtually any wine region that produces red wines also produces roses, as the only difference between the two types comes in how long the fermenting juice is in contact with the color-bearing grape skins. The finest place for roses, however, is Mediterranean France, and the finest rose appellation there is Tavel. The wines made there have a generosity of aroma and flavor that few roses elsewhere equal.

This particular Tavel is a blend of grenache, syrah, cinsault, and clairette grapes. It tastes of red berries and dark cherries, with echoes of dried herbs in its finish. Very versatile at the supper table, it can take the place of a red wine on a hot day when virtually any red will feel too heavy. Serve it well-chilled alongside grilled chicken or pork, or even with burgers and hot dogs at a cookout. It's a versatile crowd pleaser.