In 1966, a feisty would-be winemaker named David Lett, fresh out of viticulture school at the University of California at Davis, headed for Oregon, where he established The Eyrie Vineyards in an old turkey-processing plant near the Willamette Valley town of Dundee. Hundreds of miles north of California's sunny climate, he wisely planted cool-weather grape varieties on his plot of reddish earth. These included pinot noir, riesling, and a tiny patch of pinot gris. That almost no one had heard of pinot gris back then didn't bother Lett. After all, almost no one had yet heard of Oregon wine, period.