My first visit was in 1979. I'd previously dismissed tropical cocktails as slushy "umbrella drinks," but the Tiki-Ti's Navy Grog folded the umbrella forever. It was a complex creation, run through with striations of lime juice, simple syrup, grapefruit juice, allspice, and smoky Demerara rum. Like many of the Ti's 92 cocktails, the Navy Grog has a unique pedigree: it was invented in 1934 at the first tiki bar, Don the Beachcomber's, where Ray Buhen, a native of the Philippines who arrived in LA in 1930 at the age of 18, was one of the original bartenders. The Beachcomber's "Rum Rhapsodies" attracted a who's who of post-Prohibition Hollywood—Howard Hughes and Joan Crawford were regulars—and kick-started the midcentury Polynesian Pop craze.