A decade ago, my wife, Karen, and I spent Christmas in Orange County, California, where we accompanied her brother David to a friend's beach house for cocktails. Given the sunny clime, I figured we'd be sipping margaritas. So, I was stunned when David's friend handed me a Tom and Jerry, a frothy drink of brandy, rum, beaten eggs, hot milk, sugar, and spices. A cousin of eggnog served warm rather than cold, the Tom and Jerry was once one of America's most popular Christmastime tipples, but it fell out of fashion in most parts of the country in the early 20th century. As it turned out, David's friend was from Michigan, and there—and in the other states bordering the Great Lakes—interest in the drink has never flagged. You can find excellent versions at places like the 172-year-old Schwabl's, in West Seneca, New York, near Lake Erie.