Since 1891, the Giulio Cocchi estate, a wine producer in Asti, Italy, has been making Cocchi Americano, an aperitivo of fortified Moscato d’Asti wine steeped with bitter, quinine-rich cinchona bark, citrus peel, and other botanicals. This fine example of chinato—a wine-based drink containing quinine bark—has recently alighted on U.S. shores, and bartenders are embracing it for the edge it gives cocktails. But for our money, it’s best enjoyed as it is in Asti: over ice, with a splash of seltzer.