Ana Tulia Gómez Peña, 69, stands on the patio of her home in Cartagena, Colombia, shaping dough between her palms to make one of the city's most beloved foods: arepas de huevo, fried cakes of corn masa stuffed with soft-cooked eggs. She flattens each disk, then slips it into a vat of hot oil, where it sizzles and puffs. Using a wire skimmer, she deftly pulls it from the fryer, slices it along the side, and drops in a raw egg. She fries the patty again, and then hands it to me. I take a bite. The arepa has a light crunch at the edges that gives way to a fluffy interior. The egg within is perfect—the whites set, the yolk soft and golden. I devour it with a dollop of hot sauce.