Before visiting Toronto's The Black Hoof, I had yet to meet a liver and onions dish I could truly love. That changed when a bowl arrived at the table: a tangle of braised mushrooms, miniature caramelized whole cipolline onions, and in place of the typical pan-fried calf's liver, a thick swoosh of light, creamy duck liver pâté. Simple, classy, superb. I fell hard.
The Black Hoof
928 Dundas Street West
Christina Tosi is chef-owner of Manhattan's Momofuku Milk Bar.