Like so much else in this mad world, things were once simpler when it came to whiskey. Single malts came from Scotland. You could name every rye producer in one breath. And there wasn't, for Chrissakes, sweet tea-flavored bourbon. Well, times have changed: Distilling has exploded across the globe, and many of the results are excellent. In the roaring category of Japanese whiskeys, Suntory's Hibiki 21 blends product from Chita, Hakushu, and Yamazaki, an all-star cast of distilleries. Aged in American and Spanish oak, as well as Japanese mizunara oak, it offers lush tones of caramel, wood, and fruit, with a touch of smoke.