One of the things I love most about Jack's Wife Freda is its simplicity. The menu is thoughtfully brief, the dishes are straightforward, the flavors are clear and bright. The cocktail list was no different, a tight group of clever offerings, but one of them stood out to me immediately: the Bootsy Collins. A punchy update to a classic Tom Collins—a generous dose of Lillet Rouge, an herbaceous fortified red wine, amps up the Collins's color, flavor, and potency—is an apt drink to bear the name of the famously flamboyant funk bassist. The recipe is simple, and I've made it maybe a half-dozen times in the last week. Already, it seems, I've formed a new habit.