But once our main tests are finished, it’s a necessity for our test kitchen cooks to re-test recipes indoors on grill pans. And especially for small-batch grilled recipes, like a couple chiles for salsa or a few peaches for an ice cream sundae, we’ve grown to love cooking on our trusty cast iron grill pans. Le Creuset, Staub, and Lodge all make trusty models and all largely cook just as well as the others. Square or round versions fit easily over one "eye" of a stove, a boon to the cooks in our test kitchen who have to cook on a range with eyes set far apart from each other. Larger, rectangular versions are great on stoves with eyes set close together, and they have the added bonus of not having sides, which promotes easy access to your food.