Pakistanis make up the bulk of Razzaq's clients nowadays, often those who already know of his famed seafood dinners. But even with locals, it's a challenge to get them to endure the city's traffic and make the commute out for a leisurely evening meal. More and more, Razzaq has made himself available to come to them—preparing the same traditional dishes they'd otherwise fix on the boats in the comfort of the diners' homes. Among them are spice-laden patties made from mud crabs and shrimp, a spicy crab curry called karhai, crab-leg "lollipops," and traditional biryani. The taste for seafood is thriving, Razzaq says, even if it's not always eaten under the night skies. He hopes that, now and then, customers will still be interested in a local boatman's stories of his ancestors, or those of the spirits haunting the seas. "We derive our livelihood from the water," he says. "We hope God will do well by us, but we can't say much more."