Greg Malouf, formerly of MoMo, a Middle Eastern restaurant in Melbourne, Australia, has made a career of adapting the food of his Lebanese childhood to a modern global palate. For instance, he combines kibbeh, a lamb and bulgar fritter, with mozzarella cheese for a pan-Mediterranean croquette. And he plays with other cuisines as well, seasoning his "Southern" fried chicken with South Asian ingredients such as turmeric, paprika, and coriander. Together with his former wife and co-author Lucy, he makes restaurant-quality dishes accessible with down-to-earth guidance doled out with a sense of charm and disarming modesty (that kibbeh recipe, for example, includes this reassuring note: "They are a little fiddly to make but with a bit of practice you can achieve a passable, if not exceptional, result"). Indeed, when I made Malouf's lamb manoushi, a blend of vegetables and meat that's pureed and fried, then crumbled over fresh hummus, it yielded the type of soulful yet refined cookery that has turned me into an instant fan of his cooking. For all his talk of passable results, this dish turned out to be exceptional.