Scenes From Our SAVEUR Supper with Greg Baxtrom

From the Olmsted garden with love

By SAVEUR Editors

Published on July 26, 2017

What's a chef to do with a little extra land? For Greg Baxtrom, acquiring the plot adjacent to his year-old Brooklyn, New York restaurant Olmsted was an opportunity to bring farm-to-table right next door. Last night, the SAVEUR test kitchen played host to Baxtrom and his team, who served up a feast showcasing the produce grown right there in the new Olmsted garden.

While Baxtrom boasts an extensive resume in fine dining (Per Se, Alinea), the chef said during the dinner that his ideas about cooking, and being a chef, were influenced strongly by his stint as Chef de Cuisine of Blue Hill at Stone Barns under the tutelage of farm-to-table pioneer Dan Barber. Now, at his first restaurant, and as a first-time business owner, he's carried that ethos over, planting the seeds for herbs, peppers, berries, and more—both for his ever-changing menu and for a program that allows customers to take some home (for a fee of $10). Baxtrom waters the garden daily himself.

This spread from Greg Baxtrom makes us want to get into gardening.

An evening of the restaurant’s latest globe-trotting hits started with crawfish-lobster crackers, fried up like Asian shrimp crackers using puffy tapioca flour, and a first course of the restaurant’s crispy crab rangoons nestling kale grown in Baxtrom’s garden and served in Chinese takeout boxes. For the second course, smoke wafted through the candlelit dining room as a bluefish salad was finished with a smoking gun and served with a cool pannacotta of nasturtium. A BLT bowl swapped regular bacon for thicker pork belly, tossed with garden romaine and cherry tomatoes.

The final savory course paired dry-rubbed scallops with a pudding of grilled corn, chanterelles, and blueberries, followed by thinly sliced sheets of pastrami—yes, he cures it in-house—served with slaw, cornbread, and a potato salad that one diner said “reminds [her] of home in Texas.” To cap off the meal: a cake pudding cake with fresh berries.

Each dish and presentation spoke to to Baxtrom’s resourcefulness and willingness to experiment, and guests walked away eager to see what he would create with a different crop of produce. Baxtrom echoed that sentiment, noting that Olmsted’s playlist hasn’t changed once in over a year since it opened, saying, “The only thing I ever want to have to change is the menu!”

From left to right: food consultant Brette Warshaw, SAVEUR Editor-in-Chief Adam Sachs, and Kenzi Wilbur of Food52 pose for a photo.
From left to right: publicist Jessica Rosen, Chumley's executive chef Victoria Blamey, and writer Kate Donnelly raise a glass.
We pre-gamed dinner with this casual snack of duck liver mousse.
Photographer Evan Sung and Chef Alex Stupak are all smiles.
Esquire Executive Director Michael Hainey and his wife Brooke Cundiff pose for a group shot with Editor-in-Chief Adam Sachs.
David Plotz, CEO of Atlas Obscura, squeezes in for a photo with SAVEUR special projects editor Leslie Pariseau.
SAVEUR deputy editor Andrew Richdale, arts and events coordinator Lindsay Maas, PUNCH writer Chloe Frechette, and PUNCH managing editor Talia Baiocchi, and SAVEUR special projects editor Leslie Pariseau are a strikingly handsome group.
Chef Greg Baxtrom and Chef de Cuisine Jenny Treantafilos plate a dish of dry-rubbed scallops, one of the favorites from the night.
The feast ended with a house-cured pastrami that we won't soon forget.
Edible Queens' Abby Carney and SAVEUR deputy digital editor Dan Q. Dao couldn't be happier with tonight's meal.
Interpol guitarist Daniel Kessler and Josh Hix, co-founder of Plated, are all smiles during dinner.
Chef Greg Baxtrom and Per Se Chef de Cuisine Eli Kaimeh hug it out after moving speech.
The incredible Olmsted team pose for a group photo after a successful dinner.

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