Off the coast, on tiny Block Island, I found another Rhode Island-style chowder destination: The Beachead. The waterfront building, which served as a lifesaving station until it was turned into a restaurant in the late 1960s, has changed hands several times over the years, but the clear chowder has remained a constant. "Some people are not familiar with it, and we'd probably sell a lot more if we did the New England [style]," concedes current owner Becky Clark, "but it's something that is so unique to here, and we love having an old-school Rhode Island recipe available for people. It's interesting and different." Beachead chef Adonis DeSouza keeps the dish simple: "Onions, celery, fresh thyme and parsley, potatoes, and clams. That's it. It's basic, but it all works."