"We use a lot of traditional Persian methods, but it's executed in a modern, fresher, lighter manner," explains Soli Zardosht, who mixes ingredients like beetroot, chiles, and sesame into her kookoo at Zardosht (her Broadway Market food stall) and Café Oto, a music club where she and her sister serve an innovative lunch menu. "There's no reason you can't go wild and use whatever you want." And kookoo isn't the only dish that they sisters have played with. "People in Iran are obsessed with pickles," Zardosht says, but she and her sister aren't sweating over the traditional versions that require long fermentations. Instead, they whip up quick pickles for lunch that morning. Persian mint, mango, and garlic. Watermelon radish and orange zest. This is what she dubs "Persian-esque" cuisine.