From behind the bar materializes a small lazy Susan, lined with condiments like fresh chili, scallions and coriander, fried shallots, dried shrimp oil, and garlic; we’re asked to garnish our dipping sauce (bowls of soy sauce and vinegar) while the broth comes to a simmer. Dan does the duties, while I notice a faint odor that intensifies while the broth begins to boil. With the odor, there’s a sense of barnyard, but not the desirable kind of barnyard like an Alps Raclette. It’s the driving through rural Iowa kind of barnyard and it intensifies as we throw in the cuts of meat as well as tofu, squash, corn, and broccoli. We’re offered the house-made shrimp paste (yes, please), which we discover is basically chopped raw shrimp, tastefully arranged in a scallop shell with a small spoon to shuttle it into the broth. When the raw shrimp sit in the bubbling stock for a few minutes, they quadruple in size and become the highlight of the meal.