In Russia’s latest oligarchic era, the Napoleon is typically a tower of thin layers of pastry, at least eight tiers high and sometimes more than 20. Chefs have their own variations, like Anton Prokofiev from Gusyatnikoff restaurant in Moscow, who adds splashes of cognac and apple cider vinegar to punch up his dough, and tops the slices with crumbled pastry, fresh berries, and mint. Chef Evgenia Zherebtzova in St. Petersburg still uses margarine, and a coating of powdered sugar. But mostly Russians still bake Napoleons at home using old family recipes. For many, it’s the taste of celebration, sometimes one long-awaited.