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Food<\/a><\/div>","timestamp":"2018-04-19T18:00:02.468Z","sm_field_image":["https:\/\/www.saveur.com\/sites\/saveur.com\/files\/styles\/325_4x3\/public\/import\/2014\/2014-03\/tout_spring-produce-fava-beans_381x381_0.jpg?itok=60fY4OmB"],"bm_field_sponsored":[false],"bm_field_exclude_from_cl":[false],"bm_field_flag_gallery":[false],"bm_field_flag_video":[false],"sm_field_sponsor_label":[""],"sm_field_subtitle":["Although we associate them mostly with Mediterranean cuisine, fava beans grow all over the world, from China to South America\n"],"im_field_tags":[1000554,1001518],"im_vid_1":[1000554,1001518],"tid":[1000554,1001518],"sm_vid_Tags":["Beans","Food"],"sm_field_primary_channel":["food"],"spell":["Spring Produce Guide: Fava Beans"," https:\/\/www.saveur.com\/content\/spring-produce-guide-fava-beans ","Beans Food","
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For Spaniards, one of the cornerstones of their culinary identity is, and always has been, bread. Historically, regional Spanish panader\u00edas produced rustic loaves in all sizes and shapes, but in the post-Franco era, Spanish breads fell a little flat. Over-reliance on commercial flour and production methods and under-development of fermentation, especially in the cities, led to flavorless loaves that sold their yeasty souls for easy mass-production. The difference in quality between the traditional breads of the Spanish countryside and mass-produced urban loaves became a disparate fact of modern Spanish cuisine. Fortunately, a revolution is afoot. The toasted smell of darkened loaves baked with masa madre, aka Spanish sourdough, has sent shockwaves from the movement\u2019s epicenter in Madrid out to Barcelona and beyond. With names like pan Gallego, pan de aceite, and pan de tritordeum, this new wave of breads and the Madrid-based bakers producing them are guiding carb-loving Spaniards back to Spain\u2019s artisan baking traditions. The Maestro of Madrid The bread at Panic\u20148 basic daily loaves, including a baguette, and a large ciabatta\u2014 are alive with the flavors of Javier Marca\u2019s masa madre and a variety of whole wheat flours, grains, seeds, and nuts. Panic A graphic artist by trade, Javier Marca\u2019s personal journey began with fermenting and baking experimental loaves from his home in Madrid, eventually unlocking a passion that has captivated Madrile\u00f1os\u2014so much so that his loaves generate lines around the block at his aptly-named bakery, Panic, and almost every one of his loaves sells out every day. Marca doesn\u2019t mince words about his disdain for the Spanish breads of recent years, and his dissertations on the subject are equal parts reflection and retort against Madrid\u2019s history of industrialized baking. \u201cOnce I started baking bread regularly at home, I realized I wasn\u2019t able to find really good bread in any of the hundreds of bakeries around Madrid. They all had the same bread: overly-yeasted, fluffy, tasteless\u2026 In Spain, bread is such an important item to have at the table when you start your meal, but we have actually paid no attention to it. It was treated more like a tool than a part of the food. So when I took my first bread out of the oven and had it for dinner, I [felt] really shocked. Knowing nothing at all about fermentation, bacteria or enzymes, just following the steps by mixing and letting rest, I got a bread that had a taste\u2026 and then I got those lost flavors from my childhood and the memories about my grandpa cutting along that big, dark loaf with a thick, chewy crust, that I actually used to reject because I was used to the plain, white, thin-crust and pale bread I got at the city." A beautiful Panic Bakery loaf. Panic Energized by experiments in his home kitchen, Marca\u2019s passion led him to recreate the charred-dark, sour Spanish loaves that only existed in his memories so he traveled to Gloucestershire, England to study under the master bakers at Daylesford Organic Farm. A year later, in 2012, he took a chance in opening a small bakeshop around the corner from his home in Madrid, and the local bread scene hasn\u2019t been the same since. Nowadays, Panic could be considered the Tartine of Madrid and, much like Chad Robertson, Marca has reintroduced Madrile\u00f1os to the masa madre of the past. He presides over a sea change in the way Spaniards view bread, and he is turning the tide against the forces of industrialized baking with each new convert. A Pair of Bakers, a Team of Fighters Marta Valcuende and Bego\u00f1a San Pedro call themselves luchadores: \u2018fighters\u2019 who own and operate their bakery, La Migui\u00f1a, with an eye toward long-fermented loaves like Galician pan de maiz and traditional pastries (like torrijas), cookies, croissants, and sweets. La Migui\u00f1a came about in response to a desperate lack of supply: an inability to find the sorts of breads that San Pedro had learned about in baking school. \u201cWe wanted Madrid to have good bread,\u201d she says. \u201cLocals shouldn\u2019t need to travel to the villages in the outskirts of Spain to buy it.\u201d In addition to baking rustic, handmade sourdough breads and towering bizcocho cakes, La Migui\u00f1a is also a leader amongst a network of popular women-led bakeshops, which also includes Horno de Bebette, 180 Obrador, and Amasa. These bakeries not only turn out some of Madrid\u2019s best new-wave breads; they are are also revitalizing long-forgotten culinary traditions and redefining the landscape for bakeries across Madrid. Bread at Panifiesto. Panifiesto A Baker and a Scientist Part workshop, part minimalist display, Panifiesto stands for making products with a real and hyper-local purpose. Owners Ander G\u00f3mez (the baker) and Alberto Sanz (the scientist and agroecologist) specialize in edible political statements: breads that intentionally include environmentally-aware ingredients like organic, stone-ground wheat, rye, and tritordeum\u2014a relatively new hybrid cereal crossed between barley and durum wheat, grown in Catalonia, and the base for one of the best loaves in Madrid. \u201cMy idea is to make a simple bread\u201d, says Gomez. \u201cA simple process: flour, water and salt, with nothing else. We use organic ingredients and sourdough, without one gram of industrial yeast in the workshop, of which I am proud. That means that yeast and bacteria that populate our masa madre are indigenous to [the neighborhood of] Lavapies.\u201d With this new wave of bakeshops guiding Madrile\u00f1os back to the traditional breads of Spain, one could easily, and happily, spend a month eating through Madrid\u2019s many great new bakeries. Each shop, and each baker, offers something new and exciting to the delicious ongoing conversation. Here are a few of our favorite places to buy our daily bread while visiting Madrid: The Bakeries Panic The bread at Panic\u20148 basic daily loaves, including a baguette, and a large ciabatta\u2014 are alive with the flavors of Javier Marca\u2019s masa madre and a variety of whole wheat flours, grains, seeds, and nuts. Be sure to call ahead and reserve a loaf\u2014they sell out daily\u2014and order the pan con tomate whenever it is available. 3letrasPAN Much like the hyper-local guerrilla bakers over at at Panifesto, the Valdezarza bakery 3 Letras uses a selection of new and heirloom grains to produce their excellent range of sourdough breads. Look here for pastries as well, especially the magdalenas\u2014a sort of Spanish tea cake\u2014and anything with the ingredient azahar (orange blossom water). Want More? 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Chef Jeff Weiss wants the world to know that Spanish bread is getting good again.<\/div>","ts_bonnier_eyebrow":"
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For Spaniards, one of the cornerstones of their culinary identity is, and always has been, bread. Historically, regional Spanish panader\u00edas produced rustic loaves in all sizes and shapes, but in the post-Franco era, Spanish breads fell a little flat. Over-reliance on commercial flour and production methods and under-development of fermentation, especially in the cities, led to flavorless loaves that sold their yeasty souls for easy mass-production. The difference in quality between the traditional breads of the Spanish countryside and mass-produced urban loaves became a disparate fact of modern Spanish cuisine. Fortunately, a revolution is afoot. The toasted smell of darkened loaves baked with masa madre, aka Spanish sourdough, has sent shockwaves from the movement\u2019s epicenter in Madrid out to Barcelona and beyond. With names like pan Gallego, pan de aceite, and pan de tritordeum, this new wave of breads and the Madrid-based bakers producing them are guiding carb-loving Spaniards back to Spain\u2019s artisan baking traditions. The Maestro of Madrid The bread at Panic\u20148 basic daily loaves, including a baguette, and a large ciabatta\u2014 are alive with the flavors of Javier Marca\u2019s masa madre and a variety of whole wheat flours, grains, seeds, and nuts. Panic A graphic artist by trade, Javier Marca\u2019s personal journey began with fermenting and baking experimental loaves from his home in Madrid, eventually unlocking a passion that has captivated Madrile\u00f1os\u2014so much so that his loaves generate lines around the block at his aptly-named bakery, Panic, and almost every one of his loaves sells out every day. Marca doesn\u2019t mince words about his disdain for the Spanish breads of recent years, and his dissertations on the subject are equal parts reflection and retort against Madrid\u2019s history of industrialized baking. \u201cOnce I started baking bread regularly at home, I realized I wasn\u2019t able to find really good bread in any of the hundreds of bakeries around Madrid. They all had the same bread: overly-yeasted, fluffy, tasteless\u2026 In Spain, bread is such an important item to have at the table when you start your meal, but we have actually paid no attention to it. It was treated more like a tool than a part of the food. So when I took my first bread out of the oven and had it for dinner, I [felt] really shocked. Knowing nothing at all about fermentation, bacteria or enzymes, just following the steps by mixing and letting rest, I got a bread that had a taste\u2026 and then I got those lost flavors from my childhood and the memories about my grandpa cutting along that big, dark loaf with a thick, chewy crust, that I actually used to reject because I was used to the plain, white, thin-crust and pale bread I got at the city." A beautiful Panic Bakery loaf. Panic Energized by experiments in his home kitchen, Marca\u2019s passion led him to recreate the charred-dark, sour Spanish loaves that only existed in his memories so he traveled to Gloucestershire, England to study under the master bakers at Daylesford Organic Farm. A year later, in 2012, he took a chance in opening a small bakeshop around the corner from his home in Madrid, and the local bread scene hasn\u2019t been the same since. Nowadays, Panic could be considered the Tartine of Madrid and, much like Chad Robertson, Marca has reintroduced Madrile\u00f1os to the masa madre of the past. He presides over a sea change in the way Spaniards view bread, and he is turning the tide against the forces of industrialized baking with each new convert. A Pair of Bakers, a Team of Fighters Marta Valcuende and Bego\u00f1a San Pedro call themselves luchadores: \u2018fighters\u2019 who own and operate their bakery, La Migui\u00f1a, with an eye toward long-fermented loaves like Galician pan de maiz and traditional pastries (like torrijas), cookies, croissants, and sweets. La Migui\u00f1a came about in response to a desperate lack of supply: an inability to find the sorts of breads that San Pedro had learned about in baking school. \u201cWe wanted Madrid to have good bread,\u201d she says. \u201cLocals shouldn\u2019t need to travel to the villages in the outskirts of Spain to buy it.\u201d In addition to baking rustic, handmade sourdough breads and towering bizcocho cakes, La Migui\u00f1a is also a leader amongst a network of popular women-led bakeshops, which also includes Horno de Bebette, 180 Obrador, and Amasa. These bakeries not only turn out some of Madrid\u2019s best new-wave breads; they are are also revitalizing long-forgotten culinary traditions and redefining the landscape for bakeries across Madrid. Bread at Panifiesto. Panifiesto A Baker and a Scientist Part workshop, part minimalist display, Panifiesto stands for making products with a real and hyper-local purpose. Owners Ander G\u00f3mez (the baker) and Alberto Sanz (the scientist and agroecologist) specialize in edible political statements: breads that intentionally include environmentally-aware ingredients like organic, stone-ground wheat, rye, and tritordeum\u2014a relatively new hybrid cereal crossed between barley and durum wheat, grown in Catalonia, and the base for one of the best loaves in Madrid. \u201cMy idea is to make a simple bread\u201d, says Gomez. \u201cA simple process: flour, water and salt, with nothing else. We use organic ingredients and sourdough, without one gram of industrial yeast in the workshop, of which I am proud. That means that yeast and bacteria that populate our masa madre are indigenous to [the neighborhood of] Lavapies.\u201d With this new wave of bakeshops guiding Madrile\u00f1os back to the traditional breads of Spain, one could easily, and happily, spend a month eating through Madrid\u2019s many great new bakeries. Each shop, and each baker, offers something new and exciting to the delicious ongoing conversation. Here are a few of our favorite places to buy our daily bread while visiting Madrid: The Bakeries Panic The bread at Panic\u20148 basic daily loaves, including a baguette, and a large ciabatta\u2014 are alive with the flavors of Javier Marca\u2019s masa madre and a variety of whole wheat flours, grains, seeds, and nuts. Be sure to call ahead and reserve a loaf\u2014they sell out daily\u2014and order the pan con tomate whenever it is available. 3letrasPAN Much like the hyper-local guerrilla bakers over at at Panifesto, the Valdezarza bakery 3 Letras uses a selection of new and heirloom grains to produce their excellent range of sourdough breads. Look here for pastries as well, especially the magdalenas\u2014a sort of Spanish tea cake\u2014and anything with the ingredient azahar (orange blossom water). Want More? Sign up for our newsletters By submitting above, you agree to Saveur\u2019s privacy policy. Panifiesto This Lavapies institution is minimalist, adorned only with racks of bread that sell out fast. Get there early for a taste of the pan Gallego, made with rye and wheat flours, and the very special pan de tritordeum, a bread loaded with crunch and hearty flavor from its unique namesake grain. La Migui\u00f1a Get to this Tetu\u00e1n neighborhood favorite early in the day to catch the fresh pastries coming out of the oven\u2014especially the torrijas if they are ready, and an avocado toast on their pan levain if not (yes, avocado toast is a thing in Spain now, too). ","madrid Bake bread Breads Travel spanish","Jeff Weiss","
Chef Jeff Weiss wants the world to know that Spanish bread is getting good again.<\/div>","
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