Jambon-Beurre

In this year's SAVEUR 100, we take stock of our favorite things: recipes, people, places. We consider every last one a new classic.

By Matt Gross

It took me a few visits to France before I tried a jambon-beurre, the most iconic French sandwich. Sold all over Paris, from boulangeries to street vendors, it confounded me: Ham and butter on bread—that's it? But once I tasted it, I became obsessed. The way the sweet butter complements the saltiness of the ham, all within the confines of a demi-baguette, is incredible. From then on, I ate jambon-beurre whenever I could, which was often. But the more I ate, the more I began searching Paris for a more evolved rendition.

In New York, where I live, chefs devote immense energy to elevating the burger, the pizza, even the hot dog. But in France, the jambon-beurre is fast food, and seemingly nothing more. Then, during a visit to Paris last fall, I learned that Christophe Vasseur, the man behind the brilliant bakery Du Pain et Des Idées, had supposedly perfected the jambon-beurre. I called him to request a demonstration. The next afternoon, we were at his boulangerie. I noticed from the start his sandwich was unorthodox: Instead of a baguette, he used pain des amis, a soft loaf he makes with wild, flavorful yeast. Next, tangy Pamplie butter. Finally, sliced top-notch boiled ham from Gilles Verot, a top charcutier. This jambon-beurre was the best I've had, each ingredient working in harmony with the others—the complexity of the yeast, the savory ham, the pungent butter. Perfect indeed.

Du Pain et Des Idées
34 rue Yves Toudic
Paris, France
33/1/4240-4452