Suffocating sweltering humid summer is already closing in on Beijing. So, I cooked this recipe, seasoned it with fennel and Indian black mustard seeds, and serve it cold. Tart and crisp, it's better than any air conditioner.
Red Cabbage with Caraway Seeds
Photo: Russell Kaye
Tart red cabbage dishes are common in Pennsylvania Dutch cookery, but this version comes from Hungarian-born restaurant critic Egon Ronay.
1⁄4 lb. smoked slab bacon, diced
1 medium red onion, peeled and thinly sliced
1 large head red cabbage, cored and shredded
2 tsp. caraway seeds
1 bay leaf
2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
Salt and freshly ground pepper
3 1⁄4 cups dry white wine
1 tbsp. honey
1⁄4 cup white wine vinegar
1. Cook bacon in a large deep skillet over low heat until crisp, about 10 minutes. Increase heat to medium-low, add onions, and cook, stirring occasionally, until onions are soft, about 20 minutes.
2. Add cabbage and cook, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes, then add caraway seeds, bay leaf, and garlic. Season with salt and pepper and cook, stirring, for 5 minutes. Increase heat to medium; add wine, honey, and vinegar; and simmer, stirring occasionally, until cabbage is soft and cooking liquid has evaporated, about 1 hour. (Add water if liquid evaporates too quickly and cabbage begins to stick to skillet.)
3. Remove cabbage mixture from heat, transfer to a large bowl, cover, and refrigerate overnight to allow flavors to blend. To serve, warm cabbage mixture over low heat, adjusting seasoning with salt, pepper, and vinegar if necessary.
