May 20, 2011

Speķa Pīrāgi (Bacon Turnovers)

These small bacon and onion pies are a staple of Latvian festive tables. We prefer double-smoked bacon, but any thick-cut bacon will do. This recipe first appeared in our May 2011 issue, with the article Riga Revisited.

Credit: Landon Nordeman

MAKES ABOUT 60

1 1/4 cups milk

12 tbsp. unsalted butter, plus more for greasing

1/3 cup plus 1 tsp. sugar

1 tsp. kosher salt

2 1/4-oz. packages active dry yeast

5 cups flour

1 tbsp. canola oil

1 lb. double-smoked bacon, cut into 1/8″ cubes

1 small yellow onion, minced

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1 tbsp. heavy cream

1 egg yolk

1 egg white, lightly beaten

Make the dough: Heat milk, butter, 1/3 cup sugar, and salt in a 2-qt. saucepan over medium heat until sugar dissolves; set aside. Whisk together remaining sugar, yeast, and 1/4 cup water heated to 115° in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook; let sit until foamy, about 10 minutes. Whisk in milk mixture, add flour, and mix on low speed until dough forms. Increase speed to medium-high and knead until smooth, about 8 minutes. Cover bowl with plastic wrap; let sit until doubled in size, about 1 1/2 hours.

Meanwhile, make the filling: Heat oil in a 4-qt. saucepan over medium heat, and add bacon; cook, stirring, until fat renders, about 6 minutes. Add onion and cook, stirring, until onion is lightly caramelized but bacon is not crisp, about 6 minutes. Remove from heat; season with salt and pepper. Let cool completely.

Heat oven to 400°. Whisk together cream and egg yolk in a small bowl; set egg wash aside. Transfer dough to a floured work surface and cut in half. Working with one half at a time, roll dough until 1/4″ thick. Using a 2 1/2″ round cutter, cut out dough rounds. Place 1 heaping tsp. bacon filling in center of each round, and, using your fingers, moisten edges of round with egg white; fold over to enclose filling, and pinch edges together to seal. Transfer turnovers, seam side down, to parchment paper—lined baking sheets, spaced 3″ apart. Using a pastry brush, brush wash over each bun; bake until golden brown, 12–15 minutes.

This article was first published in Saveur in Issue #138

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Ratings & Reviews (9)

by BAIBASEROCCA on 2011-06-24

Excellent recipe. I would give the recipe 5 stars, but the meat quantities should be increased. Also, piragi need to rise again before they are baked. Otherwise, fantastic!

by LOVETOPAINT on 2011-07-13

I agree with Baibaserocca about the quantity of meat, that it should be increased. I grew up knowing these by another name, Pirazini, from my Latvian Grandmother.

by CHEFANDARTE on 2011-09-02

Since when do pīrāgi need to rise again before baking? I make pīrāgi a lot and have never done that. Also, I use ham and bacon instead of just double-smoked bacon. And I add lots and lots of freshly ground black pepper. And finally, I never shape the pīrāgi like they say to in this recipe but it would take way too long to describe how I actually do it here. Sorry.

by rnelson on 2012-05-11

These were tasty.

by SUZIETHEFOODIE on 2012-07-24

I love that you shared Latvian food! I make these at least once a year, mostly at Christmas. Tastes like home.

by ELYRIA on 2012-10-03

For the filling I add 1 lb of deli ham.......cut in tiny pieces along with the bacon & onions. I cook the ham only long enough to get the "water" content out, and then strain it. I use a heaping tbs of filling. I also use one can of evaporated milk instead of regular milk. I let the dough rise twice before forming the rolls and once before baking.

by RUTA on 2012-10-04

i also add mushroomsand SPAM, plus i don't precook the bacon... every household had a different way of making these, and of course, my mother's were the best. The spicing of the spam adds a whole other dimension as do the mushrooms. ;-)

by rwgill on 2013-01-13

These were a hit at our holiday party. I did let them rise a second time after forming. It was the only way to get everything ready in a reasonable amount of time.

I'm curious if they could be formed and frozen before baking. It would be significantly easier to serve in the future if I could make them several days in advance.

by JENNY52 on 2013-03-22

I cook them a little under done, then place them in the freezer and just take them out on the day and once at room temperature cook them the last 10 minutes My main problem is making sure they are hidden from my son.

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