Travel Guide: Munich and Nuremberg
Dinner for two with drinks and tip: Inexpensive Under $20 Moderate $20–$80 Expensive Over $80
Enlarge Image Credit: Map: The M Factory
WHERE TO STAY
Hotel RottnerWinterstrasse 15–17 Nuremberg Grossreuth bei Schwinau (49/911-658-480; rottner-hotel.de). Rates: $149 Double. At this comfortable hotel, located on a working farm on the outskirts of Nuremberg, owner and chef Stefan Rottner offers cooking classes to guests and shows food films in a barn-turned-movie theater. Gasthaus Rottner, a convivial pub next door, serves farm-to-table fare such as roast goose.
Hotel Admiral MünchenKohlstrasse 9, Munich (49/8921-6350; email@example.com). Rates: $160 Double. Located on a quiet side street in downtown Munich, this 32-room, family-run hotel is cozy and old-fashioned in all the best ways, with heavy brass keys for the rooms and a delicious German breakfast of eggs, cold cuts, and assorted cheeses served in the bustling parlor.
WHERE TO EAT
Augustiner Zur SchrankeBeim Tiergärtnertor 3, Nuremberg (49/911/225-474). Inexpensive. This little restaurant just inside the walls of Keiser-burg Castle offers an impressive array of beers on tap and food to match: roasted pork shoulder, bacon dumplings, and braised cabbage, all proffered in a warm, old-fashioned dining room.
photo by Todd Coleman
BratwursthäusleRathausplatz 6, Nuremberg (49/911/227-695; die-nuernberger-bratwurst.de). Moderate. At this definitive place for the thin, highly spiced sausages for which Nuremberg is famous, the brats are roasted on a grill in the middle of the dining room, then served piping hot with creamy potato salad and sauerkraut (pictured, right).
"Die Alm" im Mandarin OrientalNeuturmstrasse 1, Munich (49/89/290-980; mandarinoriental. com/munich). Moderate. Fine dining takes on traditional fare—bread and butter blanketed in fresh chopped chives; veal with parsleyed potatoes and cranberries—are offered in a seasonal pop-up chalet (complete with man-made snow) on the roof of the Mandarin Oriental hotel.
Hofbräuhaus MünchenPlatzl 9, Munich (49/89/2901-3610; hofbraeuhaus.de). Inexpensive. Owned by the Bavarian government, this cavernous, 420-year-old beer hall has a dedicated following in Munich: hundreds of patrons keep their personal beer steins on premises in a specially designed locker. The menu is solidly old-school, with house-made weisswurst, braised pork knuckles and sauerkraut, and enormous German pretzels.
Weisse BräuhausTal 7 80331 Munich (49/89/290-1380; weisses-brauhaus.de). Moderate. Two stories of hearty Bavarian fare are on tap in this former brewery. It's a great place to sample Munich's second breakfast, served after breakfast but before lunch, of weisswurst and beer. At night, it morphs into a mini Oktoberfest with beer-friendly food like roasted pork shanks with dumplings and gravy, and of course, bratwurst.
WHAT TO DO
photo by Todd Coleman