When autumn hits, I put away the clean, crisp wines of summer and turn to whites like riesling, its delicious nectar warming my body and soul against the onset of cold. I’ve explored the unctuous rieslings of Germany and Austria, tasted Eden Valley’s Australian delights, adored Alsace’s bone-dry take. But it was only in the past year or so that I discovered New Zealand’s hidden secret. Keep reading »
FROM ISSUE #161
In the foothills of the Pyrenees in France's southwest corner, residents have been producing wines since at least 800 b.c. The best known is madiran, a red wine made predominately from the tannat grape. Though tannat's tannins can be hard to tame, many winemakers today produce softer madirans that can be drank relatively young.
FROM ISSUE #161I've never been crazy about New Year's Eve in the United States, with all its boozing and forced jollity. So when I got an invitation last year to celebrate the holiday in a tiny French village in the foothills of the Pyrenees, I jumped at the chance.
From SAVEUR Issue #159
At a luncheon recently, I was poured a sauvignon blanc tasting so intensely of the Italian hillsides it came from that it elevated the lobster dish I was eating, throwing the crustacean's rich, natural flavor into high relief. Like the lobster, the soil in which the grapes for Meroi Sauvignon Colli Orientali del Friuli 2011 ($37) grow, a calcium-rich mudstone called ponca, was once beneath the ocean. The wine's minerality and acidity buoy seafoods and poultry, while its flowery aroma and herbaceous finish layer on complexity. Winemaker Damiano Meroi grows his grapes organically, presses them gently, and barrel-ages wines from different plots separately before blending. His family has been coddling their grapes for five generations, at times against tremendous odds: Forced to cook for Nazis occupying their small winery and restaurant during World War II, they built a fake wall in their cellar and hid their best bottles until the armistice.
Beach-friendly fruit aromas of rosé give way to richer, more savory flavors, with hints of dried cherry and a touch of sea breeze and salted hazelnut in the Tibouren Clos Cibonne Côtes de Provence Rosé Cuvée Spéciale des Vignettes 2009 that is perfect for the holidays as an accompaniment with Thanksgiving turkey or Christmas goose.